Topography and Geology

Topography

The higher ground

A journey along Derby Road from Sandiacre to the Roach and then along Nottingham Road to Bramcote gives a good overall view of Stapleford's topography and geology. Derby Road, at one time called March Lane, starts at the station bridge and follows the eastern edge of the floodplain. Close by, Brookhill Street climbs steeply up from the main road. This high land on the right continues all the way through to Bramcote, falling, in some places, quite steeply to the road, e.g. the cliff behind St. John's School, whilst in other places it descends more gradually.

This main ridge has two spurs. The first, a broad low ridge, is encounted when you travel from the Roach along Nottingham Road. The top of Albert Street lies on the crest of this spur running right to left and continuing across Church Street, where the highest point on the road is just by the library. The parish church is built on the edge of this spur, as can be seen from Frederick Street falling away to Mill Road and the twichell across from the church falling to Edward Street.

The second longer spur is encountered further on the main road in Bramcote The A52 leaves the Sherwin Arms roundabout and climbs up to its highest point near to Bramcote Baths. This ridge, also going right to left, passes through Bramcote Woods before entering Stapleford and ending at the Hemlock Stone.

Lower ground

The lower ground in the parish varies in height. There are three main valleys; the Erewash, the Sick Dyke and the Trowell Sick Dyke.

The flat flood plain of the Erewash forms the western boundary of the parish and is the most significant feature of local geology. In some places it is over a half of a mile wide whilst at Toton Sidings it narrows significantly as it finds its way through the line of hills which form the main ridge mentioned in the first paragraph.

The Sick Dyke drains the shallow valley lying between Hickings Lane and Nottingham Road and its source is at the junction of Ewe Lamb Lane and Central Avenue. The stream runs in a south westerly direction passing south of Hickings Lane Recreation Ground, past where the Manor House once stood, and then between Manor Avenue and Northwood Street. It joins the Erewash near to the Old Mill Club and is just under a mile long. It is mainly culverted but comes to the surface as it runs along to the south of the recreation ground.

The Trowell Sick Dyke rises on Trowell Moor near to the old workhouse and is just under two miles long. It runs from its source to the most northerly point of the parish and then runs in a south westerly direction forming the northerly parish boundary. Flowing into the Erewash near to the Moorbridge Lane bridges, it drains the area north of Ilkeston Road as far as Coventry Lane and the Hemlock Stone. It has recently been given the name "Boundary Brook."

Geology

Description

The geology of Stapleford and Sandiacre is complex. J. Shipman wrote in 1891 that 'I know of no similar area where so much work for the field geologist is crowded into such a small space. So completely have the rocks been shattered by faults and pushed up or let down, as the case may, out of their original position, that a large geological map of this area reminds one forcibly of a patchwork quilt or a mosaic pavement.'[1] The interactive map on the site of the British Geological Survey provides an excellent detailed view of Stapleford's geology. link

Two geological periods can be seen in Stapleford, the Carboniferous and the Triassic. The Triassic period provides us with the high ground, represented by rocks of the Sherwood Sandstone Group. Varying conditions interspersed with flooding rivers account for the variety of sandstone that is found in Stapleford today. The newest rocks-the Mercia Mudstone Group- are on the south-east facing side of the ridge running down to the A52, Nottingham-Derby trunk road. The lower part of the steeper west face of the ridge facing west along Derby Road is composed of the Taporley Siltstone Formation succeeded by the Mercia Mudstones Group. North of the Roach the low ridge at the top of Albert Street is on the Taporley Siltstone Formation. Continuing north-east the west face of the main ridge is quite steep and is formed from the Nottingham Castle Sandstone Formation- clearly seen in the quarry in which the council depot is situated.

Stapleford Hill and Hickings Lane hill are also part of this Triassic group of rocks. They consists of the Nottingham Castle Sandstone Formation, overlying the Lenton Sandstone Formation, both of which form part of the Sherwood Sandstone Group. The Hemlock Stone, a sandstone pillar, stands overlooking the road about half way up the hill. It has been left standing because of a hard barytes cap which defied the attack of simple quarrying tools, although other theories have been advanced as to its origin.[2]

The older Carboniferous period is part of the Westphalian stage and in Stapleford there are two occurrences, both from the Pennine Lower Coal Measures. One is of Mudstone, Siltstone and Sandstone and the other of Sandstone. These form part of the East Midlands Coalfield. Much of the undulating land which forms the area between the high ridge to the south east and the river Erewash is formed from these rocks, although there are some remnants of later sandstone deposits.

Minerals

Ironstone

There are no records of ironstone having been worked in Stapleford, although when John Jackson's Estate was sold in 1866 it was described as 'containing coal and honeycroft ironstone.'[3] It has, however, been worked between Stanton-by-Dale and Dale Abbey, about two miles away.

Coal

The coal measures lie close the surface in Stapleford and outcrop at Stanton Gate, a few yards west of the parish boundary,[4] and dip down to the east at a rate of one yard in nine. Opencast mining has taken place twice within the last seventy years to the north of Ilkeston Road and Trowell Road.[5] There was further evidence of coal having been worked when the building of the new Albany School was interrupted by the discovery of old bell pits in the school field where children had played since 1932. When the Ilkeston Road Estate was being built in 1960, a specialist firm had to be called in to grout old mine workings which were broken into in the course of digging the foundations for the new buildings.[6] Even today the notices on Lowes Lane in Stanton Gate warn the unwary to keep out because of mine shafts.[7]

The existence of coal in the area was known from, at least, 1249, when there was a dispute about the working of a coal seam in Trowell.[8] In Stapleford, in 1576, Queen Elizabeth granted a lease for 80 years to William Fyssher of a number of lands and estates including ' mines and 'le vaynes' of coal called 'pitcole', 'stonecole' or 'seacole' in Lenton and Radforde, Stapleforde, Brampecote and Briston, co. Nottingham.'

For a more detailed account, including the history of Stapleford Colliery, see the Economic History section.link

Copper

The first OS map c.1835 showed a copper mine to the north of Stapleford Hill. This did not appear in later maps and the only other reference to it was in a small book 'Rambles round Nottingham' written in 1856 by William Wallace Fyfe. This describes the copper mine as 'imaginary' and states that 'an immense sum of money was sunk in this hopeless attempt which the slightest knowledge of geology would have disconcerted at the outset.'

However, when the Stapleford and Sandiacre News appeared on line a further reference to it was found in May 1928 [9] when sand quarrying to the north of Stapleford Hill broke into an underground passage. A number of fanciful explanations were advanced but, in the next issue, Mr. J.E Dalley, who was then 72, informed readers that it was most likely to be one of the headings from a copper mine sunk by Sir John Borlais Warren. Access was gained down a vertical shaft by means of a rope ladder and Mr. Dalley's great grandfather, a bricklayer, carried out repairs to the mine. After the ore had been extracted it was taken to a smelting works at the bottom of what is now Northwood Street. Unfortunately, the mine was not a paying proposition and was abandoned. The smelting works was used as a cowshed for a number of years before becoming dilapidated and being demolished. A building is shown on early maps.

Oil

During routine examination of the excavations for the Stapleford-Sandiacre By-pass Road (A52) during May, 1963, a seepage of crude oil and bitumen, escaping from a dolomitic sandstone was found close to the footbridge which spans the road and links the grounds of the George Spencer school. It is seen to occur in porous sandstones at the junction of what was then called the Keuper Waterstones and Keuper Marl, in a group of grey-green siltstones and sandstone. It is thought to have its origin in marine strata of Namurian age and to have accumulated in a reservoir immediately above the source rocks. The subsequent geological history in the area has allowed the oil to migrate upwards possibly along the line of the Chilwell fault.[10]

Sand

There have been sand quarries in Stapleford for many years. The quarry behind St. John's School was being worked in 1939 as evidenced by the account of the discovery of lemming bones in the face being worked. [11] A new quarry was opened complete with a rail siding at the back of the Hemlock Stone in 1926 when the Berry Hill and Stapleford Sand Coy was registered. This exploited a layer of moulding sand which was in great demand.[12]

Other geological features.

Hemlock Stone

The Hemlock Stone stands 28 feet high part way up Stapleford Hill, and is clearly visible from Coventry Lane. It is one of Stapleford's most well known features and is formed of a layer of Nottingham Castle Sandstone at the top resting on a layer of Lenton Sandstone beneath. In the top layer, the Nottingham Castle Sandstone, the grains are strongly cemented together by baryte. The Lenton Sandstone below is less well cemented together and is more vulnerable to erosion. This has had two visible effects. The upper layer retains a coating of black grime from the time when air pollution was uncontrolled. The wind erosion has removed this coating from the lower stratas but it still remains on the upper part of the rock. In addition, erosion has worn away the lower part of the stone more quickly than the upper part, giving it a slightly 'mushroom' shape when viewed from certain angles. In time this will eventually destabilise the stone and it will fall.

In recent years trees have been allowed to grow in the area and the iconic view from the southwest has been obscured.

What is the origin of the stone? A number of theories have been advanced, of varying degrees of credibility depending on your point of view. They range from mythical to man-made by way of natural erosion and the remnants of an old quarry. The first mention of it seems to be by the antiquarian,William Stukeley, in 1710-1720 [13] who passed it on his way from Wollaton Hall to Dale Abbey link and also made a drawing of it. [14] Stukely was the first to advance the theory that it was the remnant of quarrying and it was the one currently favoured until quite recently.[15] A recent laser scanning by drone has led to a re-examination of this theory but the British Geological Survey have yet to make a definitive pronouncement.

The Hemlock Stone and the surrounding site is owned by Broxtowe Borough Council and has Local Nature Reserve status link Part of the area is being used as a mountain bike trail so is probably best visited during school hours. link You can also climb there-not the rock but an old quarry-the only place in Nottinghamshire where this sport can be practised. link

Bob's Rock

Stapleford is fortunate in having another rock of significance, Bob's Rock. The latter is hidden away much closer to the centre of town near to Cemetery Road and was a favourite meeting place for Stapleford folk for picnics and other social occasions such as Sunday School outings until the building of houses on Cemetery Road in 1937 blocked the access. In front of the rock is a flat grassy area suitable for sports and games and the grassy banks will hold several thousand people. In 1893 the annual show of the Bramcote and Stapleford Floral and Horticulture Society was held there. [16]

John Wesley is supposed to have stabled his horse in the cave in the rock and one can well imagine him standing there and preaching to the crowd seated in tiers above him. Bob's Rock itself is of sandstone and probably has been left behind when quarrying for sand.

Here is the view in 1910.link A small barn can be seen to the right of the rock.

The rock can be viewed by accessing the wooded area to the east of the cemetery. It is possible to go down into the amphitheatre, the local children still play there, but the two paths down are steep and can be slippy. Here again the area has become very overgrown and the best time to see the rock is in early Spring before the new foliage obscures the view and after last year's growth has died down. Photographically this means, unfortunately, that the colour of the dead bracken dominates the scene. In 2022 Mountain Bike activity was reported here.

Who was Bob? No-one knows. No documentary evidence of the name is known to exist. The excavation of the quarry took place at an early date-at least before 1774 when John Wesley stabled his horse in the cave in the rock. Maybe it was named after one of the retired quarry workers who used to visit his old friends who were still working and sit on the rock, suck on his clay pipe and admire the view!